Friday, 26 February 2010
These are the last (but one) four cars from a batch of 25. The last will be a bit special. The first was made about 3 years ago.
The T35 Bugatti and its derivatives must be the the most successful and longest lasting racing car of all time, the first being built in 1924 and the last in 1938, though the type had lost its edge in the early 30’s.
All models are based around the same basic chassis, (albeit with some detail differences,) a formed aluminium part, a built up example of which sits in the foreground of the picture. All have also used the old Airfix model as their base, which was ok when it came out, but like so many, the moulds were getting very tired when they were last made. The kit does not go together particularly well, but as most oddments are discarded for slot car use, the problems are fewer.
Each will take some 60 hours to build.
All four cars in the background will have the little flat Mabuchi which provides ample power. The wheels are machined Airfix parts fitted with Scalextric Maserati/Vanwall tyres.
Plans are afoot to make similar T35 and T51 cars on the same chassis’ but with all new bodies. Not for some while yet…
Thursday, 25 February 2010
After commenting that I had over 20 cars on the go, it was suggested that I did a little write up on each one. None are straight builds, each having something done to make it special in some small way. This is the most recent to be started and will probably be completed before the summer.
TVR Griffith 400
I had a 2500 many years ago. Like driving on rails.
The Griffith 400 was introduced in 1964, a slight improvement on the Griffith 200. Officially it was a USA only car, and consisted of a TVR Grantura with a Ford 289 cu in Ford V8 fitted. They gained a reputation for high speed and abysmal quality.
The model is a chopped and modified Ocar TVR Vixen Mk II. Like the real thing, this car will have a hot motor to make it very fast and totally unmanageable. Chassis will be folded aluminium, guide will be an MRRC racing type.
Just a couple of hours to reach this stage, most being very careful measurement prior to shortening the car by approx 9/64”, or 4½ scale inches. Mk I Cortina lights will be fitted, new side vents cut, side windows reshaped and the bonnet modified to leave just a bulge, which would clear the engine air cleaner. I will probably have the bumpers off before I finish it.
Oh yes, the wheels will be 72 spoke wires, naturally….
Sunday, 21 February 2010
It's really me behind my camera and it really IS a Ferrari 250 GTO blasting round the lanes of West Norfolk a few years ago. This is a VERY original car which had done only rallies and Tour de France type things. geared for road rallies rather than racing 7000 revs in top represented 149.7mph which we reached once or twice on the road!
The walk round will help with genuine details for those wishing to build a model.
I just want to wish Graham and all the people that post here the best of luck with this great blog. I probably won't be posting here much because I have my own blog, but I'll be following this one and may make the post the odd comment from time to time.
I want to give you a little treat. About eight months ago I was in touch with the present owner of Keft cars (and Coventry Climax engines too, apparently...), Peter Schroeder in the U.K.. He was enthusiastic about getting some Kieft slot cars built. That project for numerous reasons never came to fruition, however during the course of our correspondence he did share with me his ideas and illustrations for an exciting new project. Behold the NEW Kieft Corsa Veloce sports car! It looks gorgeous dunnit? It would have a CC engine too. However these things have a nasty habit of just not panning out, so this illustration and the plans here may well be the closest you'll ever get to seeing the real thing.
Now I don't really know if I"m even supposed to be posting these pics. I did write to him ages ago asking, nay, pleading with him to let me put them on my blog, but I got no answer.But he didn't tell me not to...
Anyway cheers and good luck.
Saturday, 20 February 2010
To create the lamp lens the glass paint needs to be used unthinned. I usually apply it with another pin with the point snipped off. This allows slightly more paint to be carried on the tip.The photo below shows how I keep them vertical, by just pushing the pins into a scrap piece of balsa. A tiny drop of paint is just touched on the heads. Surface tension creates the lens as the paint will dry more or less in the shape that it's applied. ie a dome. It usually takes a couple of applications to achieve the right form. It dries very slowly,so I normally give it at least a day before I touch them.
As best a close up as I can manage is shown below. The paint is clear and reflects the chrome on the pin head and catches the light much like a reflector. There is also the chrome rim of the pinhead giving a nice finishing touch. When fitting up to the car body I normally snip off the head leaving around 5mm of the pin for insertion of a pre-drilled hole. The pin is then fixed from the inside using cyano. Cheap, simple but very effective.
Friday, 19 February 2010
Just a quick introduction from me. Have been into scratch building for just over a year.
I'm currently doing a few builds. A couple of Ocar MKII Jags, a Arii kit (63 Skyline 4 door), a resin Riley 1.5 from Pendles & a airfix Escort but that is only a static thank god. I have a few more cars on order but I will update later about them.
Not much to say atm but will update here soon with some projects & get some pics up too.
Look forward to seeing some great builds & hope to add my bit.
Wednesday, 17 February 2010
Monday, 15 February 2010
Returning for a moment to cars. Your 166mm looks marvelous Peter. I hope we shall see more development pictures soon. I've done a little more work on my Hawthorn Monza 750. Now getting to the fiddly bits, which is where I usually make a pigs bottom of things...
I'll be starting work on Mike himself soon. From the few colour pictures I've found so far, am I correct in assuming Mike Hawthorns elaborate crash hat was black - or was it a very deep blue?
Sunday, 14 February 2010
On the assembly front here we have several photo’s showing fairly clearly how my rendition of a wire wheel goes together. The first picture shows the rim with one of the spacers attached. I would normally use Devcon for this kind of work, but in this instance I have used cyan. Not a good idea. Once the spacer is fixed in the right place ie central and concentric, I paint the back face of the wheel black.
Then the disc is glued in place with the other spacer fixed on top
The tricky bit of course are the two photo etched spoked parts. The rear one needs the spokes bending upwards and the front piece, the spokes bending back. More or less creating two cones.
The rear one is glued to the spacer on top of the disc.
I would guess that the W9533 (Ferrari 375) and W9206 (Sharknose are made of the same compound. The four tyres give a nice range of sizes, it's just a pity Scalextric will not supply them!
Once the wheels are done I will look into tyres. Urethane casting is fine, but not for large quantities, so enquiries are now being made regarding manufacture of tyres to a pattern.
All the available (occasionally) tyres are somewhat wide, with the Sharknose fronts at about a scale 7.5" and the 375 tyres about 7.35". By comparison, the tyres for the Maserati, (slightly larger I/D), are a scale 5.6", not too far out for a pre-war racing car.
Thus, an open question. Would it be worth getting tyres made similar (!) to the Scalextric fronts? The target price would be £4.00 per set.
I'll pop on a couple of pictures if so required.
The photograph shows the wheel/tyre combination, brake discs, spacers, spoke set and spinners. The spacers are .55mm brass that I had etched when I had the first DBR1 chassis. But as a good replacement I guess brass washers could be used instead. The tyres are the fronts from a Scalextric 375 F1 Ferrari, but i'll change these soon for the sharknose variety. The discs are also photo etched items being the correct diameter, for Astons at least. To give a little realism to the discs I held them in my mini drill using a screw in the chuck and with a touch of 600 wet and dry, gave them a spin.The circular scratches look much better than the stainless steel in mill finish. The spokes are the two part etchings that i've mentioned on numerous occasions. and the spinners are from FF. Next step is to glue the parts together!
Saturday, 13 February 2010
Friday, 12 February 2010
The Ferrari looks pretty nice too. I'd be interested in the shade of red on that one Dave. And do you polish or leave as is?
I hope to be assembling wheels tomorrow too, so were going to be over run with 'em! I've got paint on but I think it's a little too grainy/sparkly. I'll give another set another flash over with the paint thinned out further. That should cure it. The spokes need another coat to try and give them a bit more body, but there's always the danger of losing the delicacy. The spinners I have in stock are from Martin/Steve and have polished up very nicely, so i'm looking forward to seeing the whole lot glued together. I'm afraid I only have 48 spokes and I think anymore would look like there's just too much metal. We'll see they turn out. Night, night.
Thursday, 11 February 2010
Further work on the roof of the DB4 today, but using this spray putty is so slow. I used to watch paint dry for a living but this is painful! So while thats drying a bit more work on the GT. Setting the height of the bumpers to where they look as though they should be has made a big difference, particularly to the rear. It's nice to see the place filling up!